The day starts at 5:30 with a breathtaking sunrise over the Bay of Coffee Bay. A lone fisherman casts off his lines, otherwise I’m alone here. This alone was worth the ordeal, to drive over here.
At 7:30 we begin our exciting way to Port St. Johns, finally driving again a real 4×4, we are thinking. But without the GPS (it is hopefully waiting on us at the post office in Port St. Johns) is not as easy to navigate in this remote area of South Africa.
It’s the deepest countryside. We need 4 hours for the route that leads us through a breathtaking landscape. On the way we get a bit off the route. Instead of 120 km we drive 160 km, or so. That’s Africa.
A Highlight is a truck with a full load in the direction of Port St. Johns, fully loaded with people, the truck is a very common means of transport here. As soon as they have seen us, they start to wave, laugh and sing. The road is quite narrow, and one of the passengers lost his cap, we pick it out from the tree and when we overtake the truck then, we throw the cap to the lucky owner. In Germany we would say, a wool cap is really that important? Here people have an income of 400, 500 Rand a month and a cap is 30, 40 Rand. (1 € = 9.6 Rand). Accordingly, they are happy.
In general, I had not expected that poverty in South Africa, just as they must do it in other African countries like Tanzania, Zambia, Malawi, the women still carry water in buckets. Wells or pumps, we do not see it. But we see more than one woman, taking the water from a puddle by the wayside. Even the smallest help to get water, little boys look a fter the ubiquitous goats. Many animals run around without a shepherd, cows, sheep, goats, donkeys and even horses.
The Wild Coast 4×4 Trail is nothing more than the normal street of the residents, not better or worse than any other side roads here. Wee do not need the four wheel drive. The streets must be terrible, when it rains here. Deep ruts and up to 70 cm deep potholes are witnesses of driving in the rain. We expected something else, not a bad gravel road presented as a 4×4 trail. There are no signs, but a lot of ways that are not listed on the T4A Map. After we eventually wandered off the trail, we drive in the direction of Port St. Johns, it doesn’t make a difference. The scenery is beautiful. At 12:30, we are in Port St. Johns to the Post Office. Like we expected it, the parcel is not there. That’s Africa. On Saturday, the post office of Port St. Johns is open, but there is no delivery. With a few tangerines from the local market, we drive to our campsite in Cremorne Estate on the Umzimvubu River. A beautiful complex, surrounded by high mountains. There are infinitely many butterflies and birds, and it is quiet here. Quiet, green, wild … …
Km 160, 4 hours, 26 °, sunny
R 160 in Cremorne Estate in Port St. Johns
Tags: Coffee Bay, Port St. Johns, Umzimvubu River, Cremorne Estate, Wild Coast 4×4 Trail, South Africa, Tanzania, Zambia, Malawi
Next Day – to Port St. Johns
Echo Trailer – Camping Trailer